Thursday, February 26, 2015
WALKING the medieval city walls is a “must” on any trip to Dubrovnik.
The 2km circuit offers ideal photo opportunities to capture the views over the famous Old Town dubbed “the pearl of the Adriatic”.
Venture inside the walls and there is a maze of cobbled streets packed with baroque churches, buzzing pavement cafés and even a few clubs.
And with its pristine beaches, top-notch restaurants and five-star hotels, this civilised corner of Croatia is a perfectly packaged destination for those who love a bit of history while on holiday.
While A-listers including Beyoncé and Eva Longoria love to visit, the city has taken its own starring role in George R. R. Martin’s fantasy epic Game Of Thrones.
To depict the Seven Kingdoms, buildings and backdrops are used from as farafield as Malta, Spain, Morocco, Iceland and Northern Ireland.
But it was the Old Town of Dubrovnik that was the obvious choice to double as the fictional King’s Landing, capital of the realm.
The series, which enters its fifth season this spring, has been so successful, specialist tours featuring its Croatian film locations have been set up to satisfy demand.
I joined a group of fanatics on a “Thrones” tour run by excursion firm Viator, starting at the famous Pile Gate.
“My name is Ivana,” said the guide, introducing herself, “as in Trump but without the money!”
“The three-hour tour also features stops at the city’s parks used by film crews and gives visitors the chance to climb the same walls that were attacked by the Baratheons in the first series.”
Ivana made the show come alive with her knowledge, amusing delivery and flipbook of stills as we climbed sprawling steps and took in drawbridges before arriving at the Lovrijenac Fortress.
The 1,000-year-old structure was used for many of the show’s fight scenes.
The three-hour tour also features stops at the city’s parks used by film crews and gives visitors the chance to climb the same walls that were attacked by the Baratheons in the first series.
After all that walking in the heat I was keen to cool off at my base, the five-star Excelsior Hotel which clings to the cliffside and offers views from every floor.
It’s also just a few minutes from Banje Beach, which has a family vibe by day and a party atmosphere by night.
There are numerous excursions, departing from the Excelsior, including a wine trail along the peninsula of Peljesac and a visit to the medieval town of Korcula.
You can also get great views from the city’s cable car. In the space of five minutes, passengers are whisked to the top of Mount Srd for £10 return.
Dinner that night was at the charming Ragusa 2 restaurant in the Old Town.
Here I tucked into a Croatian staple – small doughnuts or fritule.
The signature dish of the region – peka – was also on the menu.
A mouth-watering blend of meat and vegetables, drizzled with olive oil, it’s slowly cooked under an iron dome and produces some of the most tender chicken and tastiest roasties I’ve ever had.
If you want to make a night of it, head to the Old Town where there is a mix of bars catering for the younger crowd.
My next stop was Split, about a two-and-a-half hour coach ride along the coastal road from Dubrovnik.
The second largest Croatian city mixes tradition with modernity.
Surrounded by mountains, its newly renovated seafront boasts restaurants and clubs.
It’s also a base for yacht tours, taking passengers around the pretty Palenki Islands and their beautifully secluded beaches.
Starting at £80 for eight hours, you can snorkel, swim and even help to sail the boat.
The best beach in Split is Bacvice.
This shallow bay made up of sand and shingle is a popular spot for families.
In the centre of Split is Diocletian’s Palace, built by a Roman emperor around 350AD.
It’s a remarkable feat of architecture and not just a museum of an empire.
The palace is a vast living and breathing city boasting bars, restaurants and shops.
You can visit it for free, or tours start from £41.
The palace also features in Game Of Thrones and organised tours will take you to the areas used as Daenerys’ throne room as well as the streets of Meereen.
My last meal on the trip was at Radmanove Mlinice, in Omis.
Squid ink risotto, fresh salads and beef accompanied more of the peka I’d already over-indulged on.
But Croatia is a place for feasting – and not just on food.
Its history, vibrant culture and colourful scenery are perfect ingredients for filling your mind and senses. Game Of Thrones: The Complete Fourth Season is out now on Blu-ray and DVD.
Getting there: Fly from London to Dubrovnik, via Zagreb, with Croatian Airlines from £280 return. Book via croatiaairlines.com.
Where to stay: A week at Hotel Excelsior costs from £477 per room and includes a buffet breakfast.
Book at adriaticluxuryhotels.com/en/hotel-excelsior-dubrovnik
For Game of Thrones tours of Dubrovnik and Split, visit viator.com
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Kara Scott
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