Thursday, February 26, 2015
POISED at the top of a mountain, I was sitting on a bike saddle attached to a single ski with a joystick poking through my legs.
Riding a Yooner for the first time was going to be an interesting experience – but at just 20cm off the ground, I didn’t have too far to fall.
I set off, carving arcs into the snow, steadying myself with my hands when the going got too fast.
A few hilarious near-misses with passing skiers and many comedy crashes later, the childish fun of the Yooner became addictive and I couldn’t wait to get back to the top to start over again.
It is just one of the many ways to enjoy the glistening mountains at Les Sybelles, a resort in the French Alps famous for hosting stages of the Tour de France.
Some bright spark thought mountain biking down the slopes might be a laugh too. So I hooked up with a group of brave souls for an organised trip in Saint Sorlin d’Arves and prepared for the slipping,sliding and slamming face-first into the snow to commence.
The bikes were attached to the lift and, once at the top, we waited until the last of the skiers and boarders had passed before letting loose.
It proved a hair-raising affair, at fi rst lacking any sort of control or direction. But after a few twists and turns I began to get to grips with how a bike works on snow – even though it did seem to have a mind of its own.
If you prefer activities where your feet stay fi rmly on the ground, try snowshoeing. Strapping large, pawlike fl ippers to my feet, I joined a tour tramping up the piste with guide Sebastien leading the way.
“You can rip these growling beasts over the mountains like they’re Formula One cars”
We walked, paused to take in the pretty mountain scenery, walked some more and did the same again.
When Sebastien stopped to offer the group some cheese and liqueur from his bag, the appeal of this pastime became slightly more apparent.
But I was itching to find my next adrenalin fix.
Half an hour at the helm of a snowmobile is the easiest way to satisfy a need for speed.
You can rip these growling beasts over the mountains like they’re Formula One cars.
But the handlebars get hot…so hot they burned a hole in my glove. It was probably my own fault for revving the engine before speeding off, pretending to be James Bond.
Our group was ticked off by the French guide for driving on the piste. It’s an important rule but one that is diffi cult to stick to when snowmobiling in the dark.
Husky dog sledding is also on offer here, as is good old plain skiing or you can just stand and marvel at the spectacular sight of Mont Blanc, Europe’s biggest mountain.
With 310km of pistes it is one of the largest skiable areas in France, linked by six connected resorts – Saint Jean d’Arves, Saint Sorlin d’Arves, Le Corbier, La Toussuire, Les Bottieres and Saint Colomban des Villards.
After joining forces ten years ago they are still developing.
There are more draglifts than chairlifts, which mean the breaks off the slopes take longer and are less sociable.
On the upside, each resort offers a village atmosphere with a genuine French feel and there are plenty of authentic restaurants.
Pop in for a lunchtime pancake at Le Thé Lait Ski in Albiez or stop for a drink and a snack (Dutch sausage comes recommended) at Le Barock in Saint Sorlin d’Arves.
Dinner on the slopes impresses, with raclette a favourite for sharing.
Each group is given a grill, a shedload of cheese, cold meats, steak, potatoes, vegetables and salad. Then you cook it yourself, melting the cheese on to everything.
It’s a tasty experience and the best places for it are L’Oule Rouge in St Jean d’Arves and La Fountaine de l’Ours in Le Corbier.
Afterwards you can rest your weary bones at Odalys L’Orée des Pistes in Saint-Sorlin-d’Arves which has a homely, chalet feel and an onsite swimming pool.
Or for convenience and value, Le Plein Sud in La Toussuire offers cosy rooms at the foot of the slopes with fab views from the balconies.
It’s a piste of paradise right on your doorstep.
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Kara Scott
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